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With the proliferation of many different cuisines arguing it out for space in a culinary world faced with the prospect of declining patrons, it would seem odd to try and squeeze into this tight niche and expect success. On one end, you have the 5 star Michelin chefs with creative wonders that take one’s breathe away, not so much for the flavours presented as much as the prices one has to pay. We’re talking high-end foie gras in a lychee and raspberry sauce; or delicate sea bass poached in saffron broth and accented with just a touch of sliced truffles. And way over at the far end, the street level food critic, accomplished in the ways of how food can make a difference at a fraction of the price. I’m talking about the Lingual con setas on the roadside at the university belt and the Bulalo from a large pot simmering in the delightful richness of a broth that has been on the stove along Zobel Roxas, for at least a number of years where hordes of hoi polloi form lines just to have a well measured bowl of softened meat, a single local bok choi leaf and an occasional potato to round it out, married to a dip of soy, calamansi and sili.

Meantime, straddling the middle of it all, every accomplished diner constantly talks about the wonderful dish you tasted once at the house of this or that and can’t help but recall it each time you try something remotely similar to it; constantly trying to reinvent it and adapt it to your own cooking. The Pampango mother of this who created the best scrambled eggs, or the Ilocano Father of that whose Bagnet had no equal in any lifetime. A priceless memory that remains permanently etched in your minds palate, which has no equal in its luscious flavour. It’s the marriage of scents and taste that no doubt moved Cecile Ysmael to get together with a coterie of friends to create Terrace at the 5th, the ultimate expression of nothing but good ole home cooking culled from the collective experience of years of home entertaining. Since its formal opening on Jan 23, it has satisfied many a diner with its offerings of home comfort food with the elements of style.

A brief survey of the menu belies simplicity because of the sheer creativity of some of the dishes, but further into it we find that there are some items that are simplicity re-defined as it boils down to the choice of meat cuts, a selection of ingredients whose combinations result in something wonderful.

We spoke to Cecile Ysmael one afternoon about her thoughts on what Terrace at the 5th is all about. As we arrive at the restaurant, the sun was filtering down from a lush garden view that evoked freshness in the midst of the big Central Business district of Makati. The chirping of birds welcomed our entrance through a door, as the cool blast of air conditioning was just as welcome as the fresh breeze from the outdoors. All along the walls were hand painted florets and icons of nature from the creative minds of Ivy and Cynthia Almario that felt more like we were stepping out rather than stepping in. The subdued reflection of green bouncing off all the walls and mirrors unfolded before us as we sat on one of the tables beside a small party of ladies. They were at feeling right at home with their wine glasses tinkling, as one of them raised her leg onto a half lotus position, sans the sandals of course. Their light banter and mild laughter was very comforting to hear in its hushed tones as we wait for Cecile to indulge our review.

She arrives gracefully draped in an all black billowing ensemble that evokes elegance but comfort in its design and combinations. A comfortable pair of clogs, not the chefs kind but something more chic suited specifically for work in the restaurant adorns her feet and we proceed to our little conversation.

“The Terrace is an extension of the home and when we entertain, it’s the best place to have something to eat with friends.” Cecile quips as she talks to us about how the restaurant business is a sacrifice because it keeps one away from the home precisely during those times when family gets together, although, she does make the time for her family, on a daily basis, it demands much. The concept grew from 7 friends who decided to share their recipes that would normally just be served within that small circle. There was some magic from those dishes so naturally, it made better sense to offer it to the dining public. I can only imagine the pain going through each partner as each secret recipe was rendered on paper and shared. The artichoke dip, the Chicken Binacol, a light salad with sliced almonds, Confit of Pork belly and even Chicken and Pork adobo flakes. It truly reads more like a family menu than a restaurant menu.

There are no culinary school scholars here, just a smattering of sous chefs to help with the preparations and assistants to move the dishes along. The whole idea is “ . . to feel refreshed and comforted after eating here.” Indeed.

Her offering is composed of a salad, pasta, main course and dessert; a complete meal that should serve as an adequate tummy tucker. We start off with a Terrace Salad of fresh greens, Green and Purple Romaine lettuce with Arugula and sliced almonds drizzled with a balsamic Vinaigrette which in itself is adequate but to this add a soft shell crab, battered and fried and you have a whole new concept to the idea of salad. Maybe at home you would do that, and why not. The combination of flavours from the nutty hints of arugula enhanced by the almonds, and to this the crab rounds off the taste to transform it into a meal in and of itself.

Another creative surprise is the Laing Pasta. You take your classic Gabi leaves and simmer them in coconut milk with white shrimp and the toss it with a little Penne pasta. The hollow pasta allows the sauce to get into the nooks and crannies and allows the flavour to spread evenly. This is unusual but is quite hearty and hits very close to home. The main course is something that Cecile openly admits is her specialty. The one-kilo portion of Prime Angus porterhouse is a magnificent cut of meat, USDA Grade A, well marbled and bordered on either end with a healthy portion of fat. True, this is neither for the faint hearted nor the health nut. However, it is the most prime among the different cuts of beef that includes the T – bone, and the tenderloin along the spine of well fed and cared for cattle. It is not enough to get the best cuts for what good is good meat in the hands of the uninitiated. It would be a pity to let good meat go to waste. To salt it would be sacrilegious as the sodium would toughen the meat. Instead, throw it onto a flame with a temperature that will cook it to its desired doneness without burning it at the least amount of time. Done-ness as a relative term, would depend on how you would like it, rare to medium to well done. A steak will show some resiliency in room temperature and this is how you can check for doneness. Well done and it shows barely any movement or flex, medium some amount of motion is allowed while rare will feel almost as if it had not gone on to the grill except for the grill marks. Regardless, it is absolutely critical to let a meat rest at room temperature lightly covered to allow some of the juices to retreat back into the meat. This one is served with a whole roasted clove of garlic and some au jous on the side. To this you drizzle extra virgin olive oil and their chimichurri sauce, and make sure to put a small serving of sea salt to flavour each bite. There are no telltale signs of rushing here, as the bloody juices do not rush out. They thoughtfully let the meat rest after grilling to allow the juices to rush back into the meat and then slice the meat into fillets large enough to display the correct done-ness, in this case medium rare. The process is simple, slice a bite size portion, dip in the au jous, drizzle a few beads of salt and savour. Nothing at home actually does come close to this.

Is it the random chirping of birds that are somehow not evident in the proverbial birdcage chandeliers adorning the ceiling, or is it the green hue that surrounds the entire restaurant that gives us this feeling of satisfaction and comfort. My son, would often pass judgement on our food sojourns. Full but not satisfied. Satisfied but not full, and once a while Full and Satisfied. But it is not just the food but also the whole process in its delivery, from the moment you walk in until the time you step out. The crisp efficiency of the service, the healthy but reasonable portions, the process by which it arrives at your table, begging you to savour its flavour. Strategic management teaches that one worries not about the outcome but the process and if the process is sound then the outcome will take care of itself. In this Cecile and the Terrace at the 5th has certainly made sure the process is sound and that the outcome has surely taken care of itself

The Terrace at the 5th on the garden ground level of Greenbelt 5 is open daily for lunch and dinner, but do watch out because Cecile tells us she will be serving breakfast sooner than we think.